Flat-fell basics

  1. Right sides togethers. (The first seam is on the wrong side.)
  2. Fold front allowance over back allowance on the first seam results in bulk and topstitch in the back.
  3. Turn to right side, fold seam allowance on wrong side to cover itself.
  4. Topstitch on the right side making sure seam allowance is folded under.

flatfell2a

Folding front over back on first seam results in: bulk in the back, and topstitch in theback.

Folding back over front on first seam results in: bulk in the front, and topstitch in the front.

Flat Fell Process

The following method produced an effect where the fold crease is towards the front, and the final topstitch is towards the back.

  1. Place fabric right sides together.
  2. Take the seam allowance of the front side and fold it back over the back side.
  3. Seam while trying to catch the very edge of the front side seam allowance. You should be sewing on the wrong side.
  4. Turn fabric to right side.
  5. Making sure seamed allowance on wrong side is covered, topstitch seam. You should be sewing on the right side.