Sunspel Design Notes on the Sweatshirt

From here:

Where does the sweatshirt come from?

A mainstay of any modern wardrobe, the sweatshirt’s continuous popularity crosses all generations and social backgrounds.

To get to the origins of the sweatshirt, we’ll have to venture back to 1920s Alabama, when Benjamin Russell, an owner of a women’s and children’s underwear factory was presented with a problem by his son. Bennie Russell Jr, a football player with the University of Alabama, had grown frustrated with the highly uncomfortable wool jerseys sported by the players. These were itchy, and prone to shrinking after washing.

Benjamin set about developing a comfortable alternative, using women’s underwear material as football shirts. The sweatshirt’s popularity amongst the sporting fraternity was immediate. Adopted amongst football and baseball players across the country, the sweatshirt became synonymous with American sport and comfort. Incidentally it picked up it’s not so glamorous sounding name from factory workers who commented on it’s apparent state post-game.

What is ‘Loopback’?

The term ‘Loopback’ is a literal description of a particular knit that features loops on the backside of the fabric.

This is the technical term given to the fabric commonly used in sweatshirts. The name comes from ‘Loopwheel, a traditional knitting machine used to knit the fabric and ultimately minimised the tension of the knit. Loopwheeled fabrics are spun and knitted with a much slower and older type of knitting rarely used today.

The fabric on the outer face of Sunspel’s ‘Q40 Loopback’ is made of two fine yarns knitted tightly together. We knit ours tighter, using a finer yarn that is more resistant to pilling (getting bobbles) which creates a less stodgy fabric.

Having the loops on the back of the fabric was originally designed to allow the sweatshirt to absorb sweat off your body and pass it into the garment to keep you cool. Our sweat top traps warm air to provide and insulating layer making our style warmer despite being 100% cotton.

What is that triangle on the sweatshirt?

‘That triangle’ has been a subject of debate within the Sunspel offices. The ‘Triangle’ or ‘Dorito’ as it’s been affectionately named, is a design feature that has appeared on sweatshirts since their inception.

The technical name is the ‘V-Stitch’ or ‘V-Insert’, a piece of ribbed cotton jersey or elasticised material commonly found in waistbands. These were originally used as a means of collecting sweat around the chest and neckline after exercise.

Further to their practical uses, the V-Stitch was put in as a way of controlling the stretch of the neckline when pulling the garment on. Today, with improvements on design of the sweatshirts the triangle is more of a visual feature harking back to collegial sportswear.

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Inverted Placket

This method is to keep the placket completely hidden on the right side. Fold along the placket line and pin at the placket closing:

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Place placket cover over the first half of  the opening and sew:

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Complete the same for the other side:

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Press open:

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Lay placket line in a straight line and pin material bulk flat. Press and prepare for topstitching:

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Final output:

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Alternatively, this is another way to deal with the bulk material when applying the final topstitch so that the appearance of the fold on the right side is different:

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French Seam Sleeve with Half Zag Topstitch

If using a slim french seam allowance, it may not be necessary to topstitch all the way around the body armhole.  Since the french seam is already neatly self-covering, topstitching only halfway between armholes around the top of the arm is an alternative method for keeping the french seam towards the body.

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French seam with an armhole

First stitch line from bottom opening to armhole:

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Cut to first stitch line:

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Press open in opposite directions:

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Press right sides together, and make final stitch:

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Press open french seam stitch. Then, steam press on the right side so that the arm hole open seams are now covered:

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Topstitch armhole hem:

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Or, blindstitch armhole hem:

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What the final right sides look like:

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Wrong side/interior stitch view:

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