This Tender shirt is flat-fell seamed through the shoulder and then through the outside of the arm:
Tag: armscye
Dominant Seams
Pleated armscye with wide flat-fell topstitch
French seams for shoulders
A flat-fell seam is traditionally used for shirting. However, Folk shirts appear to use a french seam approach.
Shoulder Apex:
Close up of french seam:
Total seam allowance is 9mm:
Topstitch seam is around 2 to 4mm:
Armpit stitching details:
French Seam Sleeve with Half Zag Topstitch
If using a slim french seam allowance, it may not be necessary to topstitch all the way around the body armhole. Since the french seam is already neatly self-covering, topstitching only halfway between armholes around the top of the arm is an alternative method for keeping the french seam towards the body.