From @jennie_adamson
Dart in Jacket Lapel
Tag: jacket
Jacket Topstitching
Lee Marsh’s Suit Aesthetic
“I like to create natural sloped shoulders with a roped sleeve head with no padding, also a proper chest.”
More Rubinacci Jacket Notes
A seemingly two-button jacket hides a top third button on the fold:
The slim silhouette is created by shaping the chest and waist line on the outerseams, and also by creating a high armhole:
Waist ease is ingeniously created in the front of the jacket, where it be kept hidden while facing someone.
The Neapolitan Shirt Sleeve
The Neapolitan “Shirt Sleeve” (la spalla a camicia) has the quality of having a wide sleeve with a high armhole. The wide sleeve allows for more movement, while a high armhole creates a sharper silhouette.
The “wrinkles”, or gathering, creates more ease that allows for more movement:
The wide armscye seems to push most of the width to the back of the suit, which keeps the silhouette sharper in front while allowing for a lot more movement in the armhole.
The high armhole (with low arymscye height) creates a sharper silhouette:
With the silhouette sharpened, it allows for the tailor to add more ease around the waist without compromising the total look of the jacket:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BISM3z4h5VX/
Interior of Unlined Jacket
Women’s Jacket Design & Development Notes
Silhouette interpretation.
Take 30 measurements on body.
Using a Stockman mannequin to start muslin mockup.
Pattern & muslin addjustments.
Higher waistline for closer fit.
Rounder back for proportion.
Cut sleeves higher to “liberate the movement”—possibly they mean to cut a lower cap height. This might be achieved by transferring the tighter shaping with the split seam running down the outside of the sleeve. (It is also possible that this might be a three part sleeve: undersleeve, back upper sleeve, front upper sleeve)
Mark final fabric with straightline grain basting stitches.
Pin muslin pattern to final fabric on grainline.
Outline with chalk / wax.
Baste thread around chalk / wax lines.
Assemble and baste for final fitting.
Add trim, buttonholes, and buttons.
A “cigarette” for sleeve head shaping.
Apply chain weight.
Front & Back:
Finished Product:
Jacket Construction
Jacket Sleeve Pitch
A person with excellent posture needs a LOW sleeve pitch (X3 – shoulder shifts towards the back). A person with a forward-curved posture needs a HIGH sleeve pitch (X2 – shoulder shifts towards the front).
Poor postures (hunched) require a pitch facing toward the front of the body.
Perfect postures require a more leveled pitch, or one pointing towards slightly to the back.
via Paris Gentleman
Side measurements for jackets
