Women’s Jacket Design & Development Notes

Silhouette interpretation.

Take 30 measurements on body.

Using a Stockman mannequin to start muslin mockup.

Pattern & muslin addjustments.

Higher waistline for closer fit.

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Rounder back for proportion.

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Cut sleeves higher to “liberate the movement”—possibly they mean to cut a lower cap height. This might be achieved by transferring the tighter shaping with the split seam running down the outside of the sleeve. (It is also possible that this might be a three part sleeve: undersleeve, back upper sleeve, front upper sleeve)

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Mark final fabric with straightline grain basting stitches.

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Pin muslin pattern to final fabric on grainline.

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Outline with chalk / wax.

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Baste thread around chalk / wax lines.

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Assemble and baste for final fitting.

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Add trim, buttonholes, and buttons.

A “cigarette” for sleeve head shaping.

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Apply chain weight.

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Front & Back:

Finished Product: