Studying techniques
The correct allowances for flat fell seams are as follows:
The following diagram illustrates why equal allowances results in incorrect seamed lengths:
1. Allowance should be 1/4″
2. Press allowance to 1/8″
3. Use #11 straw needle
4. Start on the right side (sewing from right to left).
5. First stitch is anchored to the wrong side. Then take a bit through the edge of each side of the allowance creating a zig-zag pattern for the first 5 stitches. Apply stitches with a light hand, do not tug:
6. After the first 5 stitches are applied, pull on the thread causing the allowance to fold over easily:
7. Repeat the process again:
8. Stiff fabrics like organza may need training with a steaming iron. Hover the iron over the material (do not press), until moisture and heat is transferred. Then use hand to roll and press:
Take from Threads Magazine
A seemingly two-button jacket hides a top third button on the fold:
The slim silhouette is created by shaping the chest and waist line on the outerseams, and also by creating a high armhole:
Waist ease is ingeniously created in the front of the jacket, where it be kept hidden while facing someone.
