Month: March 2015
French Ruler Positions
Rounded Shoulder
Lewin Jacket Details
Identifying Jacket Fit
via Put This On
Victorian Bodice Pattern
via HathiTrust
How to use French Rulers
French seams for shoulders
A flat-fell seam is traditionally used for shirting. However, Folk shirts appear to use a french seam approach.
Shoulder Apex:
Close up of french seam: 
Total seam allowance is 9mm:
Topstitch seam is around 2 to 4mm:
Armpit stitching details:
Calculating Paths in Inkscape
Inkscape has a very useful path measuring tool to help calculate curves called Measure Path. It is found under Extensions > Visualize Path > Measure Path.
Neapolitan Shoulders
Spalla camicia adopts a similar technique that is used in shirt-making . By tucking the seam allowance against the shoulder (not against the sleeve), the jacket follows the shape of the body causing the fabric to fall naturally from the shoulder-down. There is an absence of padding in the shoulder and a natural puckering that is formed flowing down from the sleeve head, since sleeves are cut wider at the top with excess cloth eased into the shoulder and armhole–a look thought of as a fault to some, and pure poetry in motion to others. Notice how the shoulder is knocked down, with no appearance of padding.
Con rollino (or “with roll”) jackets are made by taking excess fabric from around the sleeve head, and forming a roll that bulks up the area and pushes the sleeve head upwards, creating a bump that gives the same appearance as roping. Sometimes this bump or roll can be quite pronounced, and other times, not as obvious.