Inverted Placket
This method is to keep the placket completely hidden on the right side. Fold along the placket line and pin at the placket closing:
Place placket cover over the first half of the opening and sew:
Complete the same for the other side:
Press open:
Lay placket line in a straight line and pin material bulk flat. Press and prepare for topstitching:
Final output:
Alternatively, this is another way to deal with the bulk material when applying the final topstitch so that the appearance of the fold on the right side is different:
French Seam Sleeve with Half Zag Topstitch
If using a slim french seam allowance, it may not be necessary to topstitch all the way around the body armhole. Since the french seam is already neatly self-covering, topstitching only halfway between armholes around the top of the arm is an alternative method for keeping the french seam towards the body.
How to detect fit issues
Single Piece Shirt Pattern
Shirt Dress Pattern
French seam with an armhole
First stitch line from bottom opening to armhole:
Cut to first stitch line:
Press open in opposite directions:
Press right sides together, and make final stitch:
Press open french seam stitch. Then, steam press on the right side so that the arm hole open seams are now covered:
Topstitch armhole hem:
Or, blindstitch armhole hem:
What the final right sides look like:
Wrong side/interior stitch view:
