From Charles James Beyond Fashion:
That is clearly seen in his creation of the “perfect” tailored sleeve, which he claimed took years and twenty thousand dollars to develop. His design shares a high-cut armhole and sleeve silhouette with both military jackets and women’s garments of the 1860s, but with a critical difference. In conventional tailoring the straight grain of the sleeve is established at the top of the armhole and drops in plumb line to the wrist or cuff; in James’s permutation the straight grain originates at the two o’clock point of the armhole, and the grain at the apex therefore deviates forward—thereby acknowledging and accommodating the natural angle of the arm at rest, which is general canted forward.”
